The meagre, piquillo coulis and Paimpol coconut
A recipe from Edward Cristaudo, chef distinguished by Le Michelin in 2020, for his restaurant "La Péniche" in Tain-L'hermitage, 2 Promenade Robert Schuman.
The meagre, sacred memory of surf casting fishing at Pointe de Grave, beautiful babies of a meter who fought and who trained the lucky fischerman for a ballad of several kilometers in their flees to the South, and all this way to recover big babies in the water.
The meagre (Argyrosomus regius) is a sea fish, some specimens of which can reach a size of 2 m and a weight of 60 kg. More commonly, individuals from 50 cm to one meter are found, weighing 10 to 30 kg. Little-known because it is rare on stalls, it is nevertheless excellent value for money. Its flesh, firmer and finer than that of the seabass, explains its current success with restaurateurs.
As for the piquillos, it is a fairly fleshy Spanish pepper, also called "pimiento del piquillo", rather small, of a triangular shape and about 7 cm in length. His skin is hard and dark red, widely used in typical Navarran dishes. It is packaged whole in a jar and peeled by hand.
After these presentations, here is the recipe, for 4 people, you will need: - 1 Meagre 1 Kg (Have the fillets lifted by your fishmonger), - 600 g Paimpol coconuts in pods, - 3 cloves of garlic, - 20 g fresh bay leaf, - 30 g of fresh thyme, - 1 pork rind, - 1 jar of 250 g piquillos, - 250 g of whole milk, - 100 g of butter, - 15 g chopped chives, - 1 shallot, - 300 g of chanterelles,
- Olive oil.
Cooking Paimpol coconuts
- Pod the coconuts, - Cook them in a court bouillon with thyme, bay leaf, a clove of garlic and pork rind, - Cool with cold water to stop cooking, reserve,
Preparation of the piquillo coulis
- Blanch twice two cloves garlic, peeled and germ removed, - Mix 120 g of drained piquillos with the garlic cloves until a smooth coulis is obtained, - In a saucepan, bring milk and butter to a boil, - Remove from heat, add the coulis, create foam with a hand blender,
- Cut the meagre fillets in blocks, - Cook unilaterally in olive oil, let stand, - Sweat the shallot without coloring, - Cut the remaining piquillos in brunoise, - Brown the coconuts in the pan with the shallot, add the brunoise of piquillos, add the chopped chives, - Quickly brown the chanterelles in olive oil,
- On a base of coulis in the plate, place a few coconuts then the meagre fillet, - Add chanterelles and a little skimmed piquillo coulis.
On this dish, I will venture (I say this in the hope of being corrected by much better experts than your poor servant) to serve a Bourgogne Chardonnay from Domaine Decelle-Villa (around 25 €) or a wine from Corsica, a white Figari from Clos Canarelli (around 30 €).
So, good tasting and on the subject of wine I look forward to your comments .....