Chez Zé in Marseille
On the hiking trails that lead to the Calanques of Morgiou or Sorgiou, at the gates of the Calanques National Park, you will find at the end of the world, "Chez Zé" a Marseille institution which for 3 generations has honored traditional Provencal cuisine.
Lost at the end of the Baumettes district, a good 45 minutes from the Old Port when everything is working well, a thousand miles from all inhabited lands (there I exaggerate a little bit, but it's the Marseille atmosphere that inspires me) .
You should not miss this nice little inn, before entering it know that if you have not booked, there is a good chance that it will be ruined, because at noon, it is full like an egg, and that discuss, it drinks the short pastis it's a bit noisy for the stranger.
Despite all these people the service remains friendly and very efficient, the aperitif arrives quickly and you could choose between the 12 homemade pizzas (including the pizza with supions, famous local specialty) on the menu and the many dishes present on the slate.
The choice is vast, the prices very affordable and with a little luck, if it is the season, you can order the famous pieds paquets or headless larks.
Parisians little adventurous, we fell back on a plate of Corsican cold meats for two with an aperitif, pizzas and desserts accompanied by two glasses of wine.
Precision the pizzas are offered in two sizes, "small" and "large", the small corresponding to that served in a pizzeria, the large will be shared with friends.
It's very good, the dough of the pizza is digestible, very fine, burnt properly on the edges and the filling is at the top. The atmosphere is there, the servers with a southern accent crisscross the ranks, some customers choose to have lunch at the bar to be closer to the friends who just came to drink a pastis, others have lunch in the dining room, a regular audience who redoes the world, laughs and feasts.
So if your wanderings bring you to this district of Baumettes, do not hesitate to test this concentrated Marseille lifestyle, where the smells of garlic and basil mingle with the scents of the surrounding green pines, far far away, from the new districts de Joliette or of the Panier where Marseilles perhaps loses part of its soul by becoming more frequentable.
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