Beuchelle "à la Tourangelle"
Touraine, the beautiful province where kings are chosen to rest and taste the pleasures of life. Touraine and its castles, but also its vineyards, farms, vegetable gardens, orchards that provide the ingredients for a beautiful culinary expression.
The Beuchelle which I will tell you about here is an old Touraine recipe prepared in the last century by chef Édouard Nignon. It has been brought up to date and reappears on the best tables in Touraine.
Beuchelle (“à la tourangelle”, or “beuchelle de Tours”) is a hot dish from Tours, whose recipe combines both sweetbread and veal kidney with mushrooms (porcini mushrooms, morels, oyster mushrooms, truffle…) and fresh cream.
For 8 people, you will need:
- 2 veal kidneys (ask your butcher to degrease them and open them), - 2 sweetbreads (there unfortunately, you will have to prepare them ...), - 450 g of mushrooms (choice of morels, porcini mushrooms, oyster mushrooms, button mushrooms), - 2 tablespoon of Cognac or Armagnac,
- 50g of grated parmesan, - 1 egg yolk, - 50g of cream, - 50g of milk,
- 50g of butter - 30g of shallots - 100g of white wine - 125g of veal or beef broth - 50cl of fresh cream - Salt pepper.
And all that, ORGANIC to the maximum, of course
Preparation of sweetbreads
- Put the sweetbreads to disgorge in a bowl of cold water by renewing the water several times,
- Place the sweetbreads in a saucepan. Cover with cold water, add a few drops of vinegar or lemon, as soon as the water shivers lower the flame and blanch slowly for 3 to 5 minutes by removing the foam that forms, cool and drain,
- Peel the sweetbreads carefully to remove the thin film of skin, hard parts or waste (I know, it's difficult, I hate this step),
- Press the sweetbreads between two plates to flatten them slightly, - Slice the sweetbreads in 24 cutlets, pepper, - Fry in butter until blond coloring, - Flame with cognac or armagnac, reserve
- Mince the kidneys into 24 slices,- Fry quickly in butter, salt and pepper, the kidneys must remain slightly pink inside- Discard the cooking juices, return to the fire, flame with cognac or armagnac, reserve
- Mix the parmesan cheese with the milk, add the egg yolk, strain, - Add the liquid cream and put in a siphon with a cartridge,
- Sweat the shallots in butter, - Deglaze with white wine, reduce to dry, - Add the broth, cream, season and cook for a few minutes, - Filter and reserve,
Finishing and presentation
- Mince the mushrooms, sweat in butter until browned,
- Moisten with the sauce, - Add sweetbreads and kidneys, - Arrange the mushroom, sweetbread and kidney mixture in a baking dish, - Brown in the oven in the grill position, - Arrange in deep plates, covering with a little Parmesan emulsion, - Quickly place the plates in the oven, - Serve hot.
An idea of wine, and indeed a wine of Touraine for this Touraine dish, so why not a Chinon Les Picasses from Domaine Olga Raffault or a Bourgueil Les Racines by Frédéric Mabileau (Both around 15 €).